"Delay is natural to a writer. He is like a surfer—he bides his time. Waits for the perfect wave on which to ride in. He waits for the surge (of emotion? of strength? of courage?) that will carry him along." (E.B. White, The Paris Review Interviews, 1969)
1.12.2008
Your New Mavericks Champion
Nice job Greg Long! Twenty four seems old in the surf world, but it's not too old for big wave surfing.
And to think that I used to live a stone throw away from THE spot, not to mention that Jeff Clark's brother (yes, THAT Clark) attempted to kill... I mean teach me how to surf... that Half Moon Bay water is cooooold. I could not even unzip the wet suit. It is very funny now. I didn't think it was then. So, never really went back to the water and stayed on land on two wheels.
No, and I had no idea for years who Jeff Clark was or about Mavericks (heck, I even went to his shop a few times) until I moved to the island and began to get my feet wet. Literally.
Now I feel really old. But congrats to Long for carving it up.
ReplyDeleteGropius had to work on the Jetta otherwise I was thinking about suggesting a daytrip to Half Moon Bay.
ReplyDeleteNYTimes has a great article describing the physics and oceanolography of the competition, too.
That's cool.
ReplyDeleteAnd to think that I used to live a stone throw away from THE spot, not to mention that Jeff Clark's brother (yes, THAT Clark) attempted to kill... I mean teach me how to surf... that Half Moon Bay water is cooooold. I could not even unzip the wet suit. It is very funny now. I didn't think it was then. So, never really went back to the water and stayed on land on two wheels.
No, and I had no idea for years who Jeff Clark was or about Mavericks (heck, I even went to his shop a few times) until I moved to the island and began to get my feet wet. Literally.