Surf Camp, Day Four

The waves were about as big as ever. Unfortunately, I was too pooped to both catch the waves AND pop up on my board. Sport was able to battle into the surf with quite a bit of invective. It was a worthwhile week that left me with a few nuggets:

  • Surfing, like just about anything else, is very incremental.
  • Despite this inchworm nature, there are a few moments where you feel the rush of progress (when you catch a wave; when you hold your balance; when you have a long ride).
  • Surfing seems to be a practice that is handed down orally and visually. Literate practices seem pretty inconsequential to most of surfing (probably a big reason that neo-tribal references abound in surf culture).
  • It is much more brutal than skiing. Sport and I are still finding mysterious bruises in places we didn't think were possible to bruise.


LK said...

Hey, Sport, nice rashie. Good color.

Um...where is the sun?

Doc Mara said...

I was pretty cloudy, but that kept it near Hawaii-like temps.

The sun has returned...unfortunately.